New ferret owners often find themselves asking “Why is my ferret biting me, and how can I get him/ her to stop?”  While there are various ways you can teach your ferret not to bite, it’s important to understand a kit (baby ferret) is not biting to be mean. Ferrets communicate and play with each other by using their mouth, and as they have very tough skin, their biting can be hard. As their human companions, it will be up to us to teach them the proper way to interact and play with us.  The single most important thing to keep in mind is to NEVER hit your ferret or flick their nose (which is very sensitive), as this will only lead to a ferret that will bite more and harder out of aggression.

As each ferret is different, the method of training will also vary, so do not give up hope if your first or second attempt does not work.  Key to training is going to be consistency, to ensure your ferret does not receive mixed signals.

As young ferrets are very hyper and easily excitable, chances are your new ferret will go out of his/ her way to get your attention to play. As young ferrets communicate with their mouth, they may nip you as they would another ferret as an invitation. If you believe your ferret might nip you, try distracting him/ her with a toy or offering a treat. Try picking him/ her up and let them lick some Ferretone/ Laxatone/ Nutrical from your hands. This will also reinforce that your hands mean good things.

One of the most widely used methods to curb biting, is by applying a Bitter Apple spray to your hands, legs and/ or feet.  The majority of ferrets do not like the taste which is extremely bitter, and will often stop biting at the taste. Overtime, they will associate biting with this awful taste and should stop.  Never spray the ferret itself, or close to them where it might get into their eyes.

If your ferret continues to bite, you can try placing him/ her in their cage for a time out period. This should be no more than 10-15 minutes. Longer than that, chances are your ferret will go to sleep and not associate being placed in the cage as a form of punishment.

Another option is scruffing (holding the ferret by the loose skin around the back of their neck firmly).  When you scruff a ferret their entire body goes limp often followed by a yawn. While scruffing loudly repeat No, Bad, Stop, No Bite, etc.  If the ferret continues to bite when you release him, keep repeating. If this doesn’t work, try scruffing and slowly drag them across the floor showing dominance, in the same manner a mother ferret teaches her kits. Do not scruff or drag roughly, just enough to exert dominance.

If you’re holding your ferret in your hands and he bites, do your best to not put him down right away until he calms down, and NEVER hit him/ her. Putting a ferret down when they bite will only reinforce the behavior you’re trying to break, as they will associate getting put down/ let go of equals biting. The best approach is to scruff him/ her with her free hand and loudly say NO, Stop, No Bite, Bad, etc,. If he doesn’t, you can carefully try prying his teeth open from the side of his mouth, or running some water over him/ her (not hot). Remember do not hit your ferret or flick their nose.

It’s important to nip this behavior as quickly as possibly, and not allow any form of biting/ nipping to be acceptable. As each ferret will learn at their own speed, the keys to accomplishing success will be your persistence and consistency. Just about all ferrets learn biting is not acceptable, while kisses always are.

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I often get calls from people whose ferrets leave them presents. Not nicely wrapped ones like you find under the Christmas tree; but plain brown parcels left in corners, behind sofas, and sometimes out in the center of the room for the whole world to see!

Let’s face it, there are very few ferrets who are perfect about using the litter box. With a little effort, and a little insight as to why a ferret goes where it does, you can greatly increase his chances of hitting the right spot.

First of all, you must understand that ferrets are ‘latrine’ animals.This means that they pick a spot, usually in a private corner somewhere, and return to that spot when they have to eliminate.They also have short legs and a low profile. To them a room looks AWFULLY BIG and teh closest corner looks SO inviting. Therefore, they may choose more than one corner in a room, or one corner in each room!Hopefully, as the more (ahem) intelligent species, we will realize their dilemma and provide them with extra litter pans as needed.

In some areas where litter pans won’t fit, newspaper can be used.It may have to be taped down so teh ferret realizes that it’s not a toy to crawl under or rustle around in! You can also try putting old backing pans or Tupperware typw dishes in spaces where regular litter pans won’t fit. Whichever item suits your space, it is important to have the ferret realize that you are doing this for him to use.Placing a little feces on the paper can sometimes help the ferret to understand what the paper is for. Sprinkle some old “used” litter over fresh litter in new or cleaned litter pans to remind your ferret that this is not a new sand box to play in. Show your ferret where his ‘approved’ litter spot is and set him in it a few times; especially if he hasn’t gone for a while, and keep setting him in it unitl he finally does relieve himself.

Praise your ferret when he does the right thing.Give him a treat; but don’t let him trick you! Some ferrets will learn the motion of backing into the pan and pretend to go just so they can get a treat! Let them know the difference between the desired results and an empty pan.

An important factor to realize is that ferrets have very short digestive systems. Approximately 3-4 hours after a ferret eats, the undigested leftovers will exit the other end. Also, ferrets will often eat and then settle down for a nap. These naps will often last until the ferret is hungry again or until you come to wake him up. Waking the ferret will often trigger his body’s need to eliminate, but in his excitement over seeing you and potential freedom, he suppresses this urge temporarily. If you know that your ferret ate at a certain time, or if he’s been napping for a couple of hours, leave him in his cage until you see him use his littler box. If he seems reluctant to go and is more intent on you and getting out to play, walk away from him for a while and then come back and check his pan to see if he has gone in it. If he still hasn’t done anything, use the ‘placing him in the littler box repeatedly’ method and he should eventually get the idea. It is a good idea to set him in the litter box after he has been out for a while, too. Younger ferrets will have to be remined more often than older pets, but mature ferrets need reminders once in a while, too.

Don’t punish your ferret. Ferrets do not relate having their noses rubbed in their feces with the fact that they missed the pan. All this action does is alienate your pet from you and may actually cause him to pick more unwanted spots since his desired spot has been ruled off limits. If he still doesn’tcooperate, even though you’ve got wall-to-wall litter boxes, don’t despair.

Some ferrets will seem to have the rigth idea and head to the corner with the litter box in it, only to go right next to the box!If it is a new pan that he had never used before, check to see if the sides of the pan are too high. Usually it’s not that they can’t climb in, rather that you have formed a ‘false corner’ and he is visualizing the side of the pan as part of the wall. You may want to cut down one side so he can see the litter. If it is a pan that he has used before, but has suddenly stopped using, stop to think if anything has changed near the litter pan. ARe you using a new litter that maybe he doesn’t like? Is another animal using the same litter box? Once again, setting him in the box repeatedly should help him get the idea. If nothing has changed, then you may want to try a different type of litter. There are many new litters on the market that are accetable for ferrets. Litter made from recycled newspaper or from grain products are fine. Stay away from cedar shavings or ‘clumping’ cat litters. Cedar has a resin that is stirred up in the dust from the litter. This can cause respiratory problems in ferrets (and many other animals!). Clumping cat litters are often dusty, too. Some ferrets like to dig their faces in it and they get it up their noses and into their eyes; causing irration and infections.

If your schedule doesn’t permit you the time to constantly keep taps on your critter while you are trying to correct his habits, you can get pieces of plastic carpet runner and place a piece under each pan. Cut each piece large enough to extend out for about 8 inches or so on each side of the pan. At least if the ferret misses, he won’t soil your carpeting!

Another way of keeping your ferret away from places where he shouldn’t go is to spray the forbidden areas with rubbing alcohol, vinegar or diluted lemon or grapefruit juice (5 parts water to 1 part juice). Most ferrets can’t stand the smell of these products and will avoid treated areas. Since rubbing alcohol evaporates fast, you may have to apply it several times until your critter gives up. DO NOT use Bitter Apple for this purpose. It will work just as well, but the main purpose of Bitter Apple is to leave a bitter flaver when you spray it. Unless your ferret is chewing the carpet, you’re just wasting the Bitter Apple. You may want to test the alcohol on your carpet in a small, unseen area first to make sure that it won’t react with your carpeting and leave a stain. Most carpets won’t have any problems, but it never hurts to be sure.

For litter problems inside the cage, limiting the ferret’s open areas can generally help. Ferrets don’t like to soil their bedding or food. Arrange the contents of the cage so all your ferrets has room for is food, bedding and a litter pan. This can be done by either putting a larger pan in his cage, adding extra bedding to cover all the bare areas, or by putting the ferret in a smaller cage, temporarily, until he changes his habits. Once again, patience and perserverance are mandatory.

Somtimes ferrets that have been really good with their litter boxes can suddenly stop using them. Assuming that it’s not a medical problem where the ferret is losing control of his bowels, look to see if anything has changed in your house or in the ferret’s daily routine. Have you moved the furniture? Is there a new pet or person in the house? Are you letting him out at a different time? All of these factors can change your ferret’s habits. Most of the time, gently reminding him where the litter box is can be enough.

Sometimes, if there is anew animal in the house – especially one that is also using the litter box, you may have to get an additional litter pan until your ferret gets used to the ‘intruder’. Some ferrets refuse to share their plans and you may need to keep a separate pan for him on a permanent basis.

So that’s the scoop on the poop! I’ve covered most of the frequently asked questions that I receive.

If you have any questions or if you have other solutions to suggest, please call F.A.I.R. at: 708-681-3181 or write to us at: F.A.I.R., P.O. Box 952, Westmont, IL 60559

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Much like a 2-3 year old child, a ferrets curiosity, energy and determination are endless.  As parents child proof their home to protect their child from dangers, so must the ferret own, preferably before bringing home the new ferret.  Keep in mind, a ferret is able to manipulate their body to fit into/under the tiniest of openings.  If their head fits, you can count on the rest of their body following with no trouble.  A general rule of thumb is getting down on the floor so you’re at their level and search every area of the house for possible dangers.  Ferret proofing is an ongoing process, as soon as you think things are safe, chances are your new ferret will prove you wrong. You should always keep your eye on your ferret when they are out of their cage.

If you have any plants in the house, you should ensure they are well out of reach from your ferret.  Keep in mind ferrets are very good jumpers and problem solvers, especially if something grabs their attention they want to get to.  Many plants are poisonous to them which can pose a life threatening danger, as can potpourri.  In addition, ferrets can not resist digging in the dirt which will end up all over the floors not to mention on themselves.

You should inspect the walls in every room to ensure there are no openings they can squeeze into.  Frequent areas of concern consist of the washroom (dryer vent openings), bathrooms (around plumbing), torn window screens, under cabinets in the kitchen and bathroom, etc.  Always inspect window screens for tears and weakness and repair as soon as possible.  Ferrets should be carefully watched when in front of open windows, as within seconds they can tear through the screens and escape the house.  Openings in walls should thoroughly be patched or secured to ensure no escape (many ferrets have gotten caught within the walls, as well as escaped the house in this manner).  Many cabinets (especially kitchen) have a space between the back kick and the bottom of cabinets where ferrets can easily fit.  One of the most effective ways to protect against this is to secure a piece of thin wood to cover the gap.

As mentioned above, washrooms should be off-limits to the ferrets.  In addition to the risk of escaping through the dryer vent, ferrets are very capable of crawling underneath the machines, resulting in them getting caught in the machines inner parts.  It is also very possible that without you noticing they jump into the machines.  Always check before closing the lids and starting the machines.

Kitchens should also be considered an off-limits area to your ferret as they pose risks.  Ferrets can easily crawl under or behind a refrigerator, getting caught in the parts and/or burned by the heat.  They are also known to quickly jump into an open refrigerator often being closed in without the owner knowing (always check thoroughly before closing door).  Ovens pose the same problems, if they are not low enough to the ground (if they can fit their head under it, the rest of the body will follow).  Many ferrets are often eager to assist with the dishwasher.  Unfortunately many have gotten their nails/toes caught in the side door latches.  Always make sure there is no ferret in the machine before closing the door and/or starting it.  Kitchen cabinets can be very dangerous to ferrets, as most people store household cleaners here.  The best prevention is to utilize child proof locks to secure the cabinet doors.  As some of the plastic latches give a little room which is often enough for a ferret to squeeze into, magnetic type locks could be a better option.

Certain furniture items can pose life threatening risks to your ferret and proper care should be taken.  Recliners are the most widely known death traps to a ferret, as they easily and quickly crawl underneath and get caught in the chairs moving mechanics.  Many unfortunate accidents/deaths have occurred as a result of a ferret getting stuck/caught.  If you have a recliner, you should safe guard it from these types of accidents by disengaging/removing all the recliner mechanics and sealing off the bottom.  Ferrets can easily crawl into the under parts of sofas (ingest/choke on the foam), beds (get caught in the coils), chairs, etc.  The easiest and most efficient way to prevent this is to either secure thin wood to the bottom of these items or tack down a flat bed sheet pulled tight.

If you live in a split level home, open railings are dangerous as ferrets can easily fit through the openings and fall a considerable distance.  Other than not allowing access to this area, the best way to protect against an accident is to utilize sheets of plexi glass that is taller then they are and intertwine them around the posts.  Supervision will still be needed.

Ferrets that are wire biters pose additional problems as they risk electrocution, not to mention repair bill for the owner.  You can try hiding the wires behind items they cannot get to, applying a bitter apple paste to the wires (which has an awful bitter taste that the majority of ferrets hate) and/or applying a heavy plastic wire guard around them.

Keep in mind once you tackle the above, ferret proofing doesn’t end.  As each ferret is unique, they will find other items/areas that you missed, so always keep your eye on them when they are outside their cage to ensure a safe environment.

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Kirkley Ferguson – Fernandina Beach, FL

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Thank you,

Cindy Perez – Hillsboro, OR

This article is copyright © 2013